Are you suggesting that the master and slave cylinder going out is a symptom of a worn clutch or flywheel? It's typically accepted throughout the automotive community that when you replace your slave, master, clutch set, etc that you do the entire job and replace everything, that way you don't have to re-do the job like you keep having to do.
Posts: 3. Posts: 4. After replacing your slave cylinder and master clutch cylinder bleed your clutch. Then bleed it again in another week after that. Also might want to think about replacing the clutch kit while you are already in there.
That might be your problem. Those two parts shouldn't be going out every year. I just did mine on my ranger and it has k first time they were replaced. Thread Tools. User Name. Remember Me? Forgot Password? Ranger Pictures. Social Groups. Mark Forums Read. Join Date: Feb Posts: 8. Clutch Slave and Master Cylinder both keeps going out This is about a 3. View Public Profile. Send a private message to npittman.
Find all posts by npittman. Fordzilla80 Welcome to FRF! Join Date: Oct Posts: 8, Find all posts by Fordzilla Re: Clutch Slave and Master Cylinder both keeps going out What are your symptoms when the slave and master cylinder go out on you? Clutch doesn't fully disengage. Join Date: Oct Posts: Send a private message to halo Find all posts by halo Re: Clutch Slave and Master Cylinder both keeps going out It's typically accepted throughout the automotive community that when you replace your slave, master, clutch set, etc that you do the entire job and replace everything, that way you don't have to re-do the job like you keep having to do.
OlBlackBetty Learning to use the forums. Join Date: Feb Posts: 3. Send a private message to OlBlackBetty. Find all posts by OlBlackBetty. Join Date: Feb Posts: 4. Re: Clutch Slave and Master Cylinder both keeps going out After replacing your slave cylinder and master clutch cylinder bleed your clutch.
Send a private message to gwhitehd Find all posts by gwhitehd Similar Threads. I'm gettin my 4. Says use the tool or screwdrivers and press the white plastic clip in and pull the line. Well, thereis NO white plastic piece in between the line and the slave cylinder. Short of just cutting the line off, anyone have some thoughts on how to remove it?
Already tried with a fuel line tool, just isn't enough room. Guess I could unbolt the slave and pull the line through the bell housing and try the fuel line tool again.
If that doesn't work then I guess I'll just have to cut the line and hope I can save the one that is already in my ranger. TRS Banner I would go to a junkyard and grab one off another truck. Or look for an RBV around town that you can crawl under Most of the fuel line disconnects' plastic is too thick, you may have to trim it down. Well, the 4. But BlackBII, what do u mean take the plastic piece from another ranger?
Yeah, the plastic piece can be removed. It's not a solid circle, it has a slit in it so you can remove it. Wow, something i did not know, hell i even looked in my Haynes manual and it didnt even say anything about being able to slide it off, then again, it never said do such and such if the clip is gone lol. I had a brake place make me a new one for frankenranger for about 40 dollars USD, new line, new fittings.
Eric75 New Member. Try to make a replacement from a stainless hose clamp. I think you would be able to squeeze it in once you get it cut to the right length and bent to the right diameter. The point of the sleeve is to slide in there and release about 20 little springy sheet metal fingers from a ridge at the front of the fitting. Once the sleeve is jammed in there, press the pedal and let the fluid pressure pop the fitting out. There is a valve on it so it will not squirt once it is released, but you may get a few drops.
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